August 20, 2018

Iceline / Little Yoho Valley

Dist: 24.8km   Elev: 1190m   Time: 10h   Difficulty3/5
Day 1: 13.5km, 820m, 6h       Day 2: 11.3km, 370m, 5h

For our annual backpacking trip, Melinda and I decided to expand our hiking horizons by exploring Yoho National Park in B.C. After a little research, we planned a two-day circuit to include the popular Iceline trail and the Little Yoho River valley.

DAY ONE: Takakkaw Falls - Laughing Falls - Little Yoho Valley

On our drive from Calgary, any hopes of clear skies were quickly dashed as the entire drive was through thick smoke from the B.C. wildfires. Knowing there was rain in the overnight forecast and a small hope of better visibility the following morning, Melinda and I reversed our planned route and decided to spend day one ascending the forested Yoho and Little Yoho River valleys. Highlights included multiple waterfalls, especially Laughing Falls, and wildflower-riddled meadows. We arrived at Little Yoho campground early enough to get our pick of sites, and we found a little gem of a spot right beside the Little Yoho River. After a leisurely lunch we decided to continue exploring and followed the river upstream towards Kiwetinok Pass. This revealed very different scenery than we had seen earlier, and we got our first look at the rocky terrain that awaited us the next day. We eventually returned to camp and enjoyed a hot supper of bacon carbonara infused with pieces of Babybel cheese. We went to bed early with high hopes of dramatically different weather for our journey the following day.

Melinda crossing the first of many bridges as we made our way up the Yoho River valley.

Approaching Laughing Falls.

Even with three different photos, Melinda managed to keep her eyes closed for all of them ;)

We crossed this interesting bridge as we neared Little Yoho campground.

The surrounding peaks were barely visible through the heavy smoke.

Little Yoho River waterfalls on our way towards Kiwetinok Pass, after setting up camp.

This was our first look at the region's rocky terrain and massive glaciers.

More waterfalls and an interesting natural bridge across them.

The harsh and smoky environment was beautiful in its own way.

One of many makeshift bridges on our trip back to camp.

Our cozy campsite on the Little Yoho River. We were fortunate to arrive early and get our choice of sites.


DAY TWO: Little Yoho Valley - Iceline - Takakkaw Falls

After a night of listening to intermittent showers on the rainfly, we were thrilled to see blue skies as we emerged from our tent. We had a simple and relaxing breakfast, packed up camp, and began a forested climb towards the Iceline trail. Views exploded as we emerged from the trees, and after rounding a sharp corner we were granted our first sight of the rugged terrain that lie ahead for the majority of the day: massive glaciers hanging to surrounding peaks, bright blue tarns collecting the melting ice, countless rocks and boulders, and big views of distant peaks. We stopped for a snack at the trail's high point, which was also at roughly half of the day's total distance. The trail concluded with a steep descent through forest to return to the Takakkaw Falls trailhead at the bottom of the Yoho Valley. The falls were a welcome sight after a long and rewarding day, and Melinda and I were both grateful to get our boots off and to settle in for the air-conditioned drive home. Despite the threat of smoky and viewless conditions, our trip to Yoho turned out to be a big win and offered very unique scenery from what we are used to in the parks closer to home.


The view from the campground meadows. We had no idea these mountains were here the day prior.

Looking back at Isolated Peak and Whaleback Mountain as we neared the Iceline trail.

The rugged Iceline terrain comes into view.

Melinda approaches the first of many spectacular glaciers.

The contrast of the rocks and lakes was fascinating.

Excitedly posing by the first glacier and tarn. We were thrilled to get smoke-free views.

Crossing glacier run-off.

Looking back at the diverse landscape. Mt McArthur, Poilus Glacier, Isolated Peak, Whaleback Mountain sit in the distance, on the other side of Little Yoho Valley. 

At times it felt like being on another planet.

Emerald Glacier and another bright blue tarn.

Melinda surveying the trail ahead.

All the melting glaciers resulted in hundreds of small waterfalls like these.

Takakkaw Falls and the Daly Glacier that feed it come into view as we begin our descent towards the Yoho Valley floor.

Takakkaw Falls from the Iceline trailhead. This was a welcome sight after the a long and steep descent.


4 comments:

  1. Fantastic! Very wise decision to reverse the route so your blue-sky day was when you were at altitude. So glad you got that smoke-free day.

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  2. Hi Mim. Yes we were really fortunate to have our plan work out. Would have been a shame to miss the big Iceline scenery!

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  3. Delighted for your blue sky score! Remarkable scenery for sure.

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    1. Thanks, Kay! We were definitely pumped to see clear skies upon awaking the second day. Made all the physical inputs well worth it!

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